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Travel Journal Day Ten (April 21): The Triangle of Darkness

Greetings from Israel!

Our home base for the past few days has been at a Kibbutz on the south side of the Sea of Galilee, and we have been focusing on the area around the sea. Today, however, we journeyed further north into the area of Israel that lies between Lebanon on the west and Syria on the east.

Our first stop was at Tel Hazor (remember what Tel means?). In the 18th century B.C. this city became a major trading center, reaching over 30,000 inhabitants. Sitting on the major trade route north of the Sea of Galilee, it was important enough that it is mentioned in both Egyptian and Babylonian texts. Of most interest to us is how it relates to the conquests of Canaan by Joshua, of which you can read in Joshua 11. In verse 13 we learn that Joshua burned Hazor to the ground. Archaeological digs on the Tel have found a large Canaanite temple with a very clear ‘burn layer’ that supports this. In addition, pagan gods were found with their faces and arms chopped off – further evidence of the cleansing of the area. Isn’t it incredible to have this evidence that supports the accounts in scripture?

We then visited three sites that our instructor has termed the ‘triangle of darkness’ due to their pagan influences. The first is Tel Dan, a city with a long history dating back to the time of Abraham. When the tribe of Dan moved here after failing to take their tribal allotment (Judges 18 – note that Dan is referred to as Laish), they built a temple that was very similar to the one in Jerusalem, breaking God’s command of worshiping one God in one place. The second of these three sites was Caesarea Philippi, a site that Herod the Great’s son built into a lavish palace. Water coming from springs and snowmelt on Mt. Hermon make the area a lush oasis. However, the site was the center for the pagan worship of Pan, lending the site a dark feeling. However, it is in the midst of this that Peter proclaimed Jesus as Christ (Matthew 16:16). The final point on the triangle is Omrit, the recently discovered temple to Caesar. This magnificent site in the valley on the way from the Mediterranean Sea to Damascus was only found when a fire cleared the vegetation from a hillside and exposed some of the ruins. This reminds us of how easily the earthly wealth we hold onto can be lost and forgotten.

Perhaps the most impressive building site of the day was not Biblical, but a Crusade-era fortress in the mountains overlooking all three of the aforementioned sites. Nimrod’s Castle, named for the mighty hunter mentioned in Genesis, stands proudly on the peak as a sentinel to protect the area. This power is ultimately misplaced, though, as the fortress changed hands numerous times throughout history, and is a reminder to put our hope in Jesus, who came humbly and walked the very valleys we were looking at.

A final note on Kibbutz’s, which we have mentioned, but not explained. Prior to Israel becoming an independent nation, groups of like-minded individuals settled in the area in small communities. These communities were similar to communes, in that material possessions were shared, all jobs were considered equal, and families had very close bonds. Most of these were agriculturally based, but some did manufacturing and other trades. There are currently over 200 Kibbutzes in Israel, although most function less like a commune and more like a city. Many have begun to offer hospitality services to visitors. The ones we have stayed in offer rooms, similar to basic hotel rooms, as well as regional breakfast and supper in the cafeteria. All in all a great experience!

In Him,
Pastor Matheny and Matt Brand

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